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Dheorl
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Posted - 2008.03.30 20:33:00 -
[1]
I'm considering getting a motorbike and was just wondering if you guys could give me a quick rundown of costs and whats would be a good first bike etc.
Any help is appriciated because tbh I don't really have much of a clue what I'm looking at.
Thanx in advance.
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AndrewRyan
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Posted - 2008.03.30 20:47:00 -
[2]
Depends what type of bike you want, but I would avoid the powerful sports bikes for a while as you will either end up hurting yourself or frightening yourself and give up on bikes and some of the cruising bikes can be a handful at low speeds so get a nice and light and forgiving cafe racer that your comfortable in traffic with to get the feel of biking.
A cafe racer or "streetfighter" will cost ú1500 to ú3000 for a second hand bike in decent condition and the gear can cost ú500 for all basics but can cost more, Don't skimp on the helmet and back protector and good quality boots are a must as comfort is important. ========================================= A Man chooses, a slave obeys. |
Necto
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Posted - 2008.03.30 21:04:00 -
[3]
I recommend Kawasaki ER-6n (naked), or F version of it with better wind protection. It is very agile and reliable bike to start off with.
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Hipparchus
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Posted - 2008.03.30 22:31:00 -
[4]
I can also vouch for the ER-6n being a great bike for a beginner. I would say the most important thing is to spend as much as you can afford on quality protective gear. ItÆs also vital to have bags of self control. ItÆs easy to get carried away, and thatÆs when you make mistakes.
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Lori Carlyle
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Posted - 2008.03.30 22:50:00 -
[5]
if you want a "race" bike, Nothing beats the Aprilia RS125
WARNING It needs more care adn love then your wife!
Roadtax ú15 Insurance around ú300 full comp Read up on ANY bike before you buy
2 stokes are performace dreams but need more care 4 stokes will take anything you can give it, but are generaly slower. ---- CCP Please answer the following Questions.
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Aya Otosaki
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Posted - 2008.03.30 23:00:00 -
[6]
im also a noob rider and I have a fazer 600, i really like that bike. ----- Ignorance is my strength. |
ry ry
StateCorp Insurgency
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Posted - 2008.03.31 00:08:00 -
[7]
Edited by: ry ry on 31/03/2008 00:17:03 something a bit tame like a F650, sv650, hornet or bandit 600 would be an ideal first bike. you can ditch it as soon as you get bored of it and want something a bit fatter (which you will, tbh) and bikes like that keep their value a little better than exotics.
edit: and unfaired/half faired bikes are a good shout, so when you drop it you don't break the plastics.
don't get a ducati/guzzi/cagivia or anything because as cool as they look, it'll fall apart the first time it gets wet and cost a ******* fortune to fix if you can get the bits at all. similarly avoid grey imports like some of the 400 sports for similar reasons. a 'cafe racer custom' jobby isn't a great idea, largely because most are just faired sports bikes somebody dropped and couldn't be ****** to replace the fairing, and stuck on some renthals instead.
edit: the first guy in the thread probably just meant a snall naked bike, rather than an 'actual' cafe racer. custom bikes are generally not very good first bikes.
don't buy a ninja or a gixxer because it's a bad first bike for a hundred reasons, from insuring the ******, to the arse up riding position, to the whole 'killing yourself at speed' thing. you'll be a new rider, you won't be very good yet.
don't buy a harley/leather waistcoat/****pot lid, you'll look a ****er. don't be a power ranger either. they're ****s.
spend a couple of hundred on your helmet (shoei, aria, agv = decent brands) and get some decent gear. you won't look cool in trainers and jeans after you've come off wearing them. gloves matter too - the ones with the carbon knuckles really do help if you have a spill or want to thump somebody.
an expensive back protector is actually less important than you think if your jacket already has a half decent one built in - chances are it's your neck that'll snap, not your spine. but that's debatable, and any protection is good protection. and a speed hump on your kangaroo leather neon green 1 piece leathers will just make you look like you've got a deformity if you're not doing a trackday.
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ry ry
StateCorp Insurgency
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Posted - 2008.03.31 00:15:00 -
[8]
also if you don't have your license yet, and you're in the UK, get your DAS sorted PRONTO. the law is changin soon to make it harder to get onto anything > 125cc.
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ry ry
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Posted - 2008.03.31 00:21:00 -
[9]
Edited by: ry ry on 31/03/2008 00:22:11 so, costs...
theory test: twenty something quid. you need this before you do the DAS.
DAS (direct access): upto a grand. probably about ú700 if you're not a tard. this includes a CBT, take a week to do, and lets you get straight onto a big bike. without this you can do a cbt one saturday for ú100ish and ride a 125 with L plates. the l is for LOL.
cheap second hand bike: about a grand. for 500 you'll get somethign wanting a bit of work done on it, and if you're new to bikes you'll probably not want the hassle.
insurance: depends on teh bike. probably about ú500 p/y, but shop around. bennets were cheapest for me, and carol nash are ****heads.
tax: **** all.
mot: should come with almost a year's ticket.
helmet: 200-300.
leathers: about the same.
boots: whatever. just get some decent oxtar ones for ú80, they'll do the trick.
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ry ry
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Posted - 2008.03.31 00:28:00 -
[10]
Edited by: ry ry on 31/03/2008 00:31:19
Originally by: Lori Carlyle if you want a "race" bike, Nothing beats the Aprilia RS125
under no circumstances buy an rs125. :D
actually this reminds me: if you go down the 125 route and want a sportier bike, the 125 sports bikes are teeny weeny lilliputian tiny. if you're a bit lanky you'll look like you're on a monkey bike.
on the plus side, you'll be able to get your knee down whilst you're stationary.
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Dheorl
The Scope
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Posted - 2008.03.31 17:50:00 -
[11]
Well seeing as I'm under 21 I can only get a 125 or less from what I've read. Is this true and is so what are the best 125's out there (any that you can all agree on being good ).
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AndrewRyan
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Posted - 2008.03.31 18:22:00 -
[12]
The Yamaha TDR 125 is a good bike and fairly inexpensive and so is the Honda Varadero, Aprilia also do a nice 125 to and you can pick older models up for peanuts. ========================================= A Man chooses, a slave obeys. |
On Edge
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Posted - 2008.03.31 18:46:00 -
[13]
Originally by: Dheorl Well seeing as I'm under 21 I can only get a 125 or less from what I've read. Is this true and is so what are the best 125's out there (any that you can all agree on being good ).
Dheorl - its a bit more complicated im afraid. Basically it goes like this:
First you have to do your cbt - this is a one day course that will allow you to ride on L-plates on a motorcycle no greater than 125cc and not exceeding 14.6hp. No passengers, no motorway. This tends to cost around ú120-150 depending on your area. Valid for 2 years or until you complete a test.
If you want to do more than this then you have to get your A2 license:
Pass your theory test - Pretty straight forward as long as you buy a cdrom from smiths or wherever to practise first.
Take your practical test on a 125 and once passed you are restricted to any engine size of motorcycle as long as it doesnt exceed 33hp. Typically 400's wont out of the factory, but when you start looking at 600's etc they will legally require a restrictor installed by a garage (you would get a bit of paper confirming that the bike is restricted, keep it safe). You can now take a passenger and ride on motorways. After 2 years from the date of passing your test your restriction is lifted and you can ride anything.
As somebody mentioned above, the test will be changing in October 08 (thanks EU). IF you are considering doing your test you need to do it in he next couple of months, summer is very busy for bike training and everyone will be rushing to do test before October (think 3 month waiting list).
If you need any other info, feel free to contact me ingame.
Oh btw im an instructor.
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Auraurious
Quam Singulari Triumvirate.
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Posted - 2008.03.31 20:05:00 -
[14]
what is the law chainging to?
Perfection.
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Dheorl
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Posted - 2008.03.31 20:42:00 -
[15]
Well seeing as it turns out I can get up to 400 what engine size would you recommend. I figured I don't want to go to big because I am a newbie to motorbikes. I don't wanna go too small though either because I actually wanna get somewhere and do have quite a bit of normal bike experience (don't know how much this will actually help).
So what is a good mid point for a new rider like me?
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Gneeznow
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Posted - 2008.03.31 20:54:00 -
[16]
A good started bike is a GN125, single cylinder 4 stroke, Virago XV125 is also good, V-twin 4 stroke, and a Dragstar 250 is very nice, and has cheap insurance, I have had a Yamaha XVS Dragstar 250 for about 4 years now, very reliable and very fun to drive, I even put 1,300 euro of extras on it including hard bags, spotlights, backrest and rear carrier, it looks fantastic for a 250 cruiser.
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Daelorn
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Posted - 2008.03.31 20:59:00 -
[17]
I wish the US law was like that. We have too many idiots on big bikes here, and all they're doing is increasing insurance rates
(I'm under 21 and I want a 600cc but I would still support it, I know I won't pull stupid **** like other kids do.)
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Gneeznow
SniggWaffe
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Posted - 2008.04.01 01:50:00 -
[18]
Originally by: Daelorn I wish the US law was like that. We have too many idiots on big bikes here, and all they're doing is increasing insurance rates
(I'm under 21 and I want a 600cc but I would still support it, I know I won't pull stupid **** like other kids do.)
My first insurance was 1,000 euro for a 100cc 2 stroke thingy, and the first year I insured my dragstar 250 my insurance was 2,400 euro, I was 21 years old with 5 years driving experience. First time I insured a 1200cc volksvagen polo I think i paid about 4,000 euro, Ireland FTL.
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On Edge
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Posted - 2008.04.01 19:57:00 -
[19]
Originally by: Auraurious what is the law chainging to?
In October the test will be changing to bring it inline with what the rest of europe should be doing. Essentially the EU require an emergency stop to be conducted at 50kmh, which is 30.5mph or summit. So it means this cant be conducted on normal residential roads. So it will be done off road along with a bunch of other exercices.
The upshot is that it will cost more to take your test, as the DSA are building new sites to conduct these tests (most dont have sufficient off road space atm) and the test will take longer, so less tests per day per examiner.
The next problem is that it will cost more to do your training as well. My company is anticipating an extra 1 day training for all courses and unless a training school has sufficient space to practise the above exercises the costs will increase anyway. Some schools will rent from the dsa the official test facilities out of hours (evenings/sundays), or will have to look for other premises to conduct training. Higher overheads.
So upshot is there will be less test centres, with less tests conducted, which cost more.
Great
The only good thing will be that the u-turn will be conducted in a controlled environment (no traffic to worry about) and students wont have any kerbs to panic about. The road section may actually have the potential to improve the standard of the average rider as there will be no proper exercises conducted on the road (other than hill start i guess), so the test routes will be significantly longer which would probably mean more out of town roads on test, thats where most riders will spend there time in real life.
Beyond that I think 2012 the age restrictions will be changing. 23 before you can have unrestricted license? Im not sure on details. Please visit your user settings to re-enable images. |
Spaztick
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Posted - 2008.04.01 21:32:00 -
[20]
Edited by: Spaztick on 01/04/2008 21:37:01 Edited by: Spaztick on 01/04/2008 21:33:16 I'm speaking as an American, I don't know how reckless you crazy europeans are but I'm sure you enjoy as much fun as us Yanqs! Tips for your first bike:
- Do NOT buy a new one. You will lay it over in 6 months guaranteed if you ride it like a bike and not a car. Used bikes are your friend. - Do not buy a bike owned by anyone under the age of 20. I know 4 friends who ride bikes of varying ages, but my buddy age 19 does wheelies with it every other day and has laid it down twice already. He's owned it less than a year and rides it hard. I have friends over the age of 50 who laid down a bike a few months ago not being reckless but coming around a corner and avoiding a car. The one friend I do know hasn't laid over his $30,000 Harley because he's an experience rider and avoids situations that might sc*****the paint. Buy a bike that's been taken care of.
I weight about 125 (56 kilos or so) so anything over 400 is too big for me, but if you're about 70-80 kilos you can go all the way up to 800 and still control the bike. I rode on a 1000 but it was hard for my little body to move.
I know I sound like some old fart at the age of 20 lecturing to someone, but trust me on this because I speak from experience (mine and others). I myself haven't laid down a bike yet but I've come close while sliding on gravel in a parking lot. Bikes are fun to ride, there's nothing like it and I think it's better than driving a car, just stay safe on one and you won't have to get hurt and have a bad experience. I'm looking to be the one guy I know that hasn't wrecked a bike.
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Gneeznow
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Posted - 2008.04.01 21:50:00 -
[21]
Originally by: Spaztick - Do NOT buy a new one. You will lay it over in 6 months guaranteed if you ride it like a bike and not a car. Used bikes are your friend.
this is the truth, on my first bike I hit dogs, cats, walls, cars, bridges etc, you WILL crash your first bike so start off small :-P
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